Where does your mind go when you hear “French Riviera”? The Cannes Film Festival? Saint-Tropez and its famous celebrity parties?
It’s likely conjuring a luxurious image. And you’re not wrong. From the pensioners of Cagnes-sur-Mer to the wistful art-lovers of Antibes, the southern coast of France is bubbling over with lovers of the high life. But that doesn’t mean they’ll turn their noses up at you.
Nice, too, which bookends the eastern side of the Riviera, just a stone’s throw from Monaco and Italy, is as opulent a city as they come; but the inhabitants are just as likely to greet you with open arms as they are to splurge at the opera.
Related: Nice
In past centuries, Nice developed a reputation as a refuge for artists and libertines, outsiders and revelers. We all know who used to run with those crowds back in the day. That reputation has thankfully stuck. Hidden among the serpentine alleys of the Old Nice neighborhood and the rust- and goldenrod-colored façades of the city center, queer bars blare their jubilant pop and dance tracks for all who will hear them. The sweeping Promenade des Anglais, with its singular sculptures and front-row view of the glittering Mediterranean, boasts not a few same-sex couples holding hands. Glamorous seaside cabanas often serve only one purpose: to facilitate finding a third.
Speaking of which …
Where to get naughty in Nice
Pack your bags, we’re going on an adventure
Subscribe to our weekly newsletter for the best LGBTQ+ travel guides, stories, and more.
For the hot-and-bothered among us, Le Six combines an intimate, technically complex space with rowdy shower shows. Winding your way further through the stony labyrinth of Old Nice, you’ll find Le Swing, an excellent place to grab finger food before catching a drag show. Speaking of shows, the cabaret shows at La Cave Wilson serve Sally Bowles realness, while the guest DJs at L’Oméga and Le Glam keep the parties going throughout the night.
Top it all off with a visit to the after-hours haunt of Klubber before turning in at Victor Hugo Hotel or Hotel H33, perhaps with one of the locals that you met at Le Glam.
To enjoy even more mingling with locals, check out the Pink Parade, Nice’s Pride March, which happens every June. Earlier in the year, the Lou Queernaval is still going strong as France’s first and best queer Carnaval. Look for it in February. Nice is also home to two glorious queer film festivals: In&Out in spring and Zefestival in fall.
Food to knock your soccas off
Nice has a singular cuisine shaped by the city’s proximity to Italy, Provence, and the Mediterranean. Think olive oil, garlic, and anchovies. One of the best places to sample Niçoise dishes is L’Escalinada, but truly, you can find local delicacies in several unassuming local stores if you know where to look. Consider a food tour if you want to find the best places to try socca (chickpea pancakes), pan bagnat (a sandwich version of Nicoise salad), onion pizza, anchovy pies, and Swiss chard tarts. All of these are far more delicious than they sound.
Of course, you will also want to try Italian food while you are so close to Italy, and Davisto is possibly the best queer-friendly place to find it. Meanwhile, Hacienda Bar y Cocina offers a taste of Latin America, serving haute-cuisine versions of classic dishes from Chile to Mexico. However, if you’re thirsting for seafood and want a romantic view to accompany your salmon, consider Nice Sunset or Plage Beau Rivage Nice. Finally, La Civette du Cours is a favorite among LGBTQ+ locals for its top-notch people-watching opportunities. You might even order something once you peel your eyes away from the hunks walking by.
A French vacation without culture? Mais non!
Nice has always been a cultural center, and locals will boast that Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, and Yves Klein have all spent time here. You might as well experience Nice’s artistic legacy for yourself while in town. The Musée Matisse displays Matisse’s most striking works (save for The Dance, which is being held hostage in Russia) and provides essential context for the Fauvist artist’s life. On the other side of town, MAMAC — Nice’s contemporary art center — looms over the city center in all its marble, Brutalist glory. Completing this trifecta for art-lovers is the Marc Chagall Museum, which celebrates the Russian-French surrealist who called Nice home.
Find yourself some Nice-chic attire
We know it sounds unlikely now, but you might eventually need a break from all this non-stop clubbing, eating, art appreciation, and sipping seltzer on the beach. But don’t worry: There’s more. You can also go shopping. RenDesVouz is your best bet for finding a sexy little Speedo or statement thong, while Vog Nice has a large selection of classy-casual men’s clothing staples. On the other hand, Rouge Baisers is the place to go for outfits that only your partner(s) will ever see.
You can’t visit Nice without stopping by Librairie Vigna, one of the best LGBTQ+ bookstores in Europe. Even if your reading list is already bursting at the seams, you might simply want to soak up the vibes at this quaint little store. The owner is a gem and will likely strike up a conversation with you while you peruse titles spanning from sophisticated to saucy.
If you do buy a book, you’ll have the perfect boy magnet for when you inevitably get back to the beach. It’s the French Riviera, after all.
You might as well live in luxury.
Join the GayCities newsletter for weekly updates on the best LGBTQ+ destinations and events—nearby and around the world.
Don’t forget to share: