Foods of La Frontera

Most people are familiar with the various ways the cuisines of Mexico and the Southwest United States intersect, such as the popular Tex-Mex style of cooking. However, many may not be aware of the term la frontera, which means “the frontier” in Spanish, but often translates as “the border” in English.
As chef and author Pati Jinich, the author of Treasures of the Mexican Table and host of the PBS series Pati’s Mexican Table, explains in her lively cookbook Foods of La Frontera: Recipes and New Taste Frontiers From Both Sides of the Border, her preferred translation is “the frontier, suggesting not just the end of one place, but the beginning of another.” This philosophy rings true throughout the cookbook, with recipes reflecting the communities that make up this region and the food they enjoy, which “knows no borders.”
Jinich leads with a section offering a guide to the flavors of la frontera, including chiles, tomatoes, crema, lard, piloncillo (brown cane sugar) and canela (cinnamon), and follows with a chapter devoted to tortillas, masa, beans and rice. None of these dishes would be complete without the contents of the next chapter, which covers salsas, guacamole and condiments. Jinich then segues to hearty seafood, poultry, meat and cheese dishes, and ends with postres (desserts).
Dishes in Foods of la Frontera are often complex but worth the extra effort to prepare, such as the spiced tamarind shrimp tacos (deep-fried shrimp in a tamarind sauce). Others are relatively quick and easy, such as greens with chile, scallions and tomato, a delicious and versatile way to serve any type of leafy green. For comfort food, look to creamy chipotle chicken, chipotle mac and cheese with chicharrónes and New Mexican enchilada casserole. There are plenty of surprises: Who knew Mexican Mennonite pizza was a thing? Jinich includes the fascinating backstory of the Mennonite communities who have settled throughout the area and the foods they introduced to the region, including caramel popcorn cheesecake.
This is much more than a cookbook, with the vibrant history and culture of the area generously sprinkled throughout. To top it off, Jinich includes gorgeous photography of the mountains, markets and people she has encountered as she’s cooked—and eaten—her way through the region. Open Foods of la Frontera, and you will immediately be transported to this special place.